Water-level controls on macro-tidal rip currents

Alongshore-directed water surface gradients ∂η/∂y were measured along the feeder channel and around the ends of the inter-tidal bar, with head differences O(0.1 m). The numerical model reproduced ∂η/∂y with a good level of skill and showed that ∂η/∂y and 〈uv〉 increase with the proportion of breaking waves Qb over the inter-tidal bar; but 〈uv〉 was maximised during peak Qb, maximum ∂η/∂y occurred when wave breaking moved offshore to the sub-tidal bar and Qb was reduced. Around low water, the forcing of the rip current by the alongshore pressure-driven feeder current was reduced by the decrease in Qb over the bar and feeder regions, but an offshore flow through the rip channel was maintained by a localised intensification of ∂η/∂y around the ends of the inter-tidal bar.