Influence of sodium metabisulfite and glutathione on the stability of vitamin C in O/W emulsion and extemporaneous aqueous gel

Vitamin C exerts several functions on skin as collagen synthesis, depigmentant and antioxidant activity. Vitamin C is unstable in the presence of oxygen, luminosity, humidity, high temperatures and heavy metals, which presents a significant challenge to the development of cosmetic formulations. Therefore, the utilization of an effective antioxidant system is required to maintain the vitamin C stability. The purpose of this research work was to develop prototypes of cosmetic formulations, as O/W emulsion and extemporaneous aqueous gel, containing vitamin C and to evaluate the influence of sodium metabisulfite (SMB) and glutathione (GLT), as antioxidants, on the stability of the active substance. A HPLC stability-indicating method was developed and validated for this study and stability assays were performed in 90 and 26 days and storage conditions were 5.0 ± 0.5, 24 ± 2 and 40.0 ± 0.5 °C. The HPLC stability-indicating method showed linearity (r2 > 0.99), specificity, R.S.D. < 1.22% and accuracy/recovery ranging from 95.46 to 101.54%. Preparations with SMB or GLT and the antioxidant-free presented results statistically distinct, demonstrating the necessity of the antioxidant system addition. O/W emulsions with SMB or GLT retained the vitamin C content >90.38% stored at 5.0 ± 0.5 and 24 ± 2 °C. For the aqueous gel with SMB or GLT, the active substance concentration was maintained >94.03%. Considering the vitamin C stability, the SMB and the GLT showed to be statistically adequate, as antioxidants, for the cosmetic formulations.