An alkyl polyglucoside-mixed emulsifier as stabilizer of emulsion systems: The influence of colloidal structure on emulsions skin hydration potential

To be considered as a suitable vehicle for drugs/cosmetic actives, an emulsion system should have a number of desirable properties mainly dependent on surfactant used for its stabilization. In the current study, C12–14 alkyl polyglucoside (APG)-mixed emulsifier of natural origin has been investigated in a series of binary (emulsifier concentration 10–25% (w/w)) and ternary systems with fixed emulsifier content (15% (w/w)) with or without glycerol. To elucidate the systems’ colloidal structure the following physicochemical techniques were employed: polarization and transmission electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction (WAXD and SAXD), thermal analysis (DSC and TGA), complex rheological, pH, and conductivity measurements. Additionally, the emulsion vehicles’ skin hydration potential was tested in vivo, on human skin under occlusion. In a series of binary systems with fixed emulsifier/water ratios ranging from 10/90 to 25/75 the predominance of a lamellar mesophase was found, changing its character from a liquid crystalline to a gel crystalline type. The same was observed in gel emulsions containing equal amounts of emulsifier and oil (15% (w/w)), but varying in glycerol content (0–25%). Different emulsion samples exhibited different water distribution modes in the structure, reflecting their rheological behavior and also their skin hydration capacity.

Graphical abstractThe complex lamellar mesophase in C12/14 APG-mixed emulsifier-stabilized binary and emulsion systems (without and with glycerol)—a depiction of TEM micrographs.Figure optionsDownload full-size imageDownload high-quality image (47 K)Download as PowerPoint slideHighlights► C12/14 alkyl polyglucoside surfactant studied in glycerol-containing gel emulsions. ► It creates the complex lamellar mesophase in the concentration range 10–25%. ► By 15% of emulsifier, oil and glycerol produce the largest interlamellar space. ► Such colloidal structure results in the most effective skin hydration.