Article ID | Journal | Published Year | Pages | File Type |
---|---|---|---|---|
1720669 | Coastal Engineering | 2015 | 19 Pages |
•Medium-to-long term coastal foredune morphogenesis is studied in an integrated model.•Successful field application demonstrates the model robustness and potential.•Coastal foredune morphogenesis is highly sensitive to environmental conditions.•The subaerial model can be easily incorporated in other subaqueous transport models.
Coastal foredunes are developed as a result of the interplay of multi-scale land–sea processes. Basic driving mechanisms of coastal foredune morphogenesis as well as natural processes and factors involved in shaping the foredune geometry are quantitatively studied in this paper by a numerical model. Aeolian sediment transport and vegetation growth on the subaerial part of a beach is simulated by a cellular automata (CA) approach, while the sediment budget in the subaqueous zone, serving as a sediment source/sink for the foredune ridges, is estimated in a process-based model. The coupled model is applied to a 1 km-long section of a barrier coast (Swina Gate) in the southern Baltic Sea for a 61-year (1951–2012) hindcast of its foredune development. General consistency is shown between the observational data and simulation results, indicating that the formation of an established coastal foredune results from a balance between wind-wave impacts and vegetation growth. Driven by an effective onshore wind and a boundary sediment supply, small-scale dunes develop on the backshore and migrate landward. They are then trapped in a narrow strip characterized by a large density gradient of vegetation cover which separates the hydrodynamically-active zone and the vegetated zone. Continuous accumulation of sediment in this strip induces the development of a foredune ridge. According to the simulations, the formation of an established coastal foredune has to meet three preconditions: 1. an effective onshore aeolian transport; 2. a net onshore or lateral sediment supply; and 3. a climate favoring vegetation growth. The formation of a new foredune ridge in front of an already existing foredune is determined by a combination of the sediment supply rate, the extreme wind-wave event frequency and the vegetation growth rate. Simulation results demonstrate a remarkable variability in foredune development even along a small (1 km) coast section, implying that the medium-to-long term land–sea interaction and foredune morphogenesis is quite sensitive to boundary conditions and various processes acting on multi-temporal and spatial scales.