A new breaking wave height direct estimator from video imagery

Breaker height is a key parameter of nearshore processes and the demand for a continuous remote estimator is pressing. In this paper we present a standalone remote video-based method that estimates wave height at the breakpoint. Individual breaking events are first identified from changes in optical properties and wave height is further derived from the optical signature at the onset of breaking. An extended validation is performed using a dense wave basin dataset. The results show the ability of the method to measure individual breaker heights (9% of mean error, 18% RMS). In addition, the unique combination of in situ and remotely sensed data allows the estimation of two other breaking-related parameters, the height-to-depth ratio and wave front face slope, which show a substantial amount of dispersion. Because nearshore video systems are rapidly spreading over world coasts, this low-cost remote breaker height estimator should encounter large interest in coastal engineering studies.

► This study presents the first standalone remote breaker-height estimator based on video imaging. ► The new method offers good performance while compared with in situ measurements. ► A unique composite in situ-video dataset offers the new possibility of computing wave angle and wave height-to-depth ratio at the breakpoint.