Defining microbial terroir: The use of native fungi for the study of traditional fermentative processes

In any fermentative process, the impact of the native microbial community is hugely important. The present study examines the far-reaching implications of harvesting and isolating specific native fungi and bacteria to use as inoculum for new forms of traditional techniques. As a chef one not only has the chance to understand their craft on a cellular level, but to connect more deeply to the indigenous life of their environment, their “microbial terroir.” In the course of developing butabushi, koji and miso, DNA analysis has been performed throughout to understand the impact of our native microbes and to propagate them in controlled environments. It is a rare moment in an urban environment when a chef can grow anything, and rarer still to be able to connect with terroir. The goal of this project is to create truly indigenous products, through stewardship of our native microorganisms.