Three-dimensional unstructured modelling of wave-induced circulation over a plane and irregular beach

Nearshore currents have a complicated circulation structure over a beach due to the mutual interaction between waves and currents. To investigate the wave-induced circulation over a beach, a three-dimensional unstructured model accounting for the combined actions of waves and currents is established. The wave distribution over the beach is computed by a wave model and the depth-dependent wave radiation stresses with the surface roller are employed in the hydrodynamic model. The present model takes the mixing coefficients and the bottom shear stress under waves and currents into account. To evaluate the three-dimensional unstructured model, the laboratory experiments over a plane and irregular beach are used to test the performance of the model. The undertow over a plane beach is well reproduced and the vertical variability is captured. The performance of the model over an irregular beach is well displayed in the reproduction of pairs of counter-rotating primary circulations at the embayment troughs. Meanwhile, the secondary circulations are observed in the swash zone. The model captures the circulation systems over a beach and the circulation structures of the wave-induced currents are well exhibited.