Contemporary morphodynamics of a high-energy headland-embayment shoreface

A 2-year investigation into shoreface morphodynamic behaviour off a high-energy headland-embayment coast in Northern Ireland reveals important process–response mechanisms that cannot be explained solely by existing conceptual models. Fourteen sequential bathymetric surveys, conducted every 1–2 months, show that morphologic (seabed) change is not directly related to oceanographic forcing—extensive nearshore and shoreface accretion and erosion occurs under fair-weather, modal and high-energy conditions. The main factors which seem to cause significant change are long-duration (swell) events coupled with onshore winds, availability of (recently) introduced sediment, surges and elapsed time between storms and the next scheduled survey. Several high-energy events over a short time period (<30 days) did not result in extensive seafloor changes, contrary to expectations. Net seabed change over 2 years shows an average to 0.6 m m−2 of shoreface accretion from the nearshore to 24 m depth. Net erosion was not observed anywhere, including the subaerial beach. Geologic evidence strongly suggests that the source of the significant volume (7.7×105 m3) of sediment introduced into the study area must have been derived from the lower shoreface and/or inner shelf, beyond 24 m depth.