کد مقاله کد نشریه سال انتشار مقاله انگلیسی ترجمه فارسی نسخه تمام متن
8256835 1534263 2017 20 صفحه PDF سفارش دهید دانلود رایگان
عنوان انگلیسی مقاله ISI
Laboratory study on the evolution of waves parameters due to wave breaking in deep water
ترجمه فارسی عنوان
مطالعه آزمایشگاهی بر تکامل امواج به علت شکست موج در آب های عمیق است
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کلمات کلیدی
انرژی تمرکز، شکستن موج، سطح موج، موج شیب، فرکانس حداکثر،
موضوعات مرتبط
مهندسی و علوم پایه علوم زمین و سیارات زمین شناسی
چکیده انگلیسی
Understanding of the occurrence of the wave breaking, the process of the wave breaking and evolution of waves after they break in deep water is crucial to simulate the growth of wind wave in ocean. In this study, deep-water breaking waves with various spectral types, center frequencies and frequency bandwidths are generated in a wave flume based on energy focusing theory. The time series of the wave surface elevation along the flume are obtained by 22 wave probes mounted along the central line of the flume. The characteristics of deep-water wave breaking are analyzed using the spectrum analysis based on the Fast Fourier Transform (FFT). For small center frequency the maximum height of wave surface generated using the Pierson-Moskowitz (P-M) spectrum is produced and the impact of the frequency width is small in wave breaking zone. While the spectral type has a significant impact on the local wave steepness during breaking, the influence of center frequency and frequency width on the local wave steepness is very weak. The significant wave steepness changes significantly after wave breaking, but it remains stable in the upstream or the downstream of wave breaking zone. After wave breaking, the peak frequency remains stable, but the spectrally weighted wave frequency changes significantly. The relationship between the level of downshift and the incident wave steepness is approximately linear. By analyzing the energy spectra, it is found that the energy loses near high frequency of controlling frequencies range and increases near peak frequency during the wave breaking. After wave breaking, the total energy dissipates remarkably with increasing breaking intensity.
ناشر
Database: Elsevier - ScienceDirect (ساینس دایرکت)
Journal: Wave Motion - Volume 68, January 2017, Pages 31-42
نویسندگان
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