Retailing masculinity: Gender expectations and social image of male grooming products in New Zealand

This paper explores the concept of masculine identity in a modern social world as evidenced by consumption of retail products traditionally seen as female or feminine (cosmetic grooming products). Male self-image in relation to the use of retail beauty products is examined through discussions between men centred on the perceived acceptable use of such products and notions of masculinity as related to this. New Zealand is said to be a typically masculine society, with strong cultural notions of masculinity tied to sport and agriculture. This paper explores the way in which males engage with cosmetic retail products in such a culture, to fashion a masculine social identity in a society with ever shifting gender rules. The paper finds the notion of conflict in construction of self-identity has the greatest impact on how a New Zealand male might purchase grooming products, with many individuals struggling to balance gender expectations of ‘manliness’ with social expectations of appearance. The study thus finds that these males tend to create unwritten ‘rules’ around the use and purchase of such products, including acceptable types of product, maximum number of products and packaging colour expectations.

► Young New Zealand males' notions of masculinity and grooming products are examined.
► Modern society is seen to pressure men to over-emphasise personal appearance.
► Role models for the use of grooming products are selected and used to legitimise purchase.
► Number, function and packaging of products are important behavioural drivers.
► Young men perceive significant female pressure to consume.