The flow in the surf zone: a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type of approach

Comparisons with laboratory measurements, both for regular and irregular waves, demonstrate that the proposed model has fairly good prediction capabilities. In particular, in contrast to other models, it provides quite good estimates of both the velocity and the undertow profiles. Moreover, typical features of random wave breaking (such as varying breaking line, different wave height decay, effects of groupiness) can be reproduced by the proposed model, as shown through comparisons with groupy wave laboratory data.