Sciences of appetite in the Enlightenment, 1750–1800

Advice about diet has been an important part of Western medicine from its inception. Although based partly on the presumed qualities and effects of foodstuffs, such advice rested chiefly on the constitution and circumstances of individual patients, including their unique appetites and eating habits. In the eighteenth century the nature of appetite itself came to be a subject of growing interest in the sciences, especially in medicine, natural history, and physiology. Within these sciences attention to the eating proclivities of individuals began to be displaced by interest in uniform processes of ingestion and digestion. In turn dietary advice came increasingly to rely on general standards of health and the digestibility of foodstuffs. Central to the promotion of uniform standards was the increasing credence given to experimental procedures that claimed to offer new certainties about the digestive process. As experimental science took hold, appetite, long regarded as a perplexing blend of psychic and somatic elements, assumed subordinate status as an object of inquiry to phenomena thought readily susceptible to laboratory manipulation. These eighteenth-century developments stand at the origin of the modern nutritional science that denigrates individual appetites in favor of universal rules of ‘healthy eating.’