کد مقاله کد نشریه سال انتشار مقاله انگلیسی نسخه تمام متن
1721014 1014455 2011 13 صفحه PDF دانلود رایگان
عنوان انگلیسی مقاله ISI
Modeling of nonlinear wave propagation over fringing reefs
موضوعات مرتبط
مهندسی و علوم پایه سایر رشته های مهندسی مهندسی دریا (اقیانوس)
پیش نمایش صفحه اول مقاله
Modeling of nonlinear wave propagation over fringing reefs
چکیده انگلیسی

The applicability of existing nonlinear (triad) spectral models for steep slopes (0.1–0.2) characteristic of reef environments was investigated, using both deterministic (phase-resolving) and stochastic (phased-averaged) formulations. Model performance was tested using laboratory observations of unidirectional wave transformation over steep and smooth bathymetry profiles. The models, developed for mild slopes, were implemented with minimal modifications (the inclusion of breaking parametrizations and linear steep-slope corrections) required by laboratory data. The deterministic model produced typically more accurate predictions than the stochastic one, but the phase averaged formulation proved fast enough to allow for an inverse modeling search for the optimal breaking parametrization. The effects of the additional assumptions of the stochastic approach resulted in a slower than observed evolution of the infragravity band. Despite the challenge posed by the fast wave evolution and energetic breaking characteristic to the steep reef slopes, both formulations performed overall well, and should be considered as good provisional candidates for use in numerical investigation of wave–current interaction processes on steep reefs.

ناشر
Database: Elsevier - ScienceDirect (ساینس دایرکت)
Journal: Coastal Engineering - Volume 58, Issue 12, December 2011, Pages 1125–1137
نویسندگان
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