کد مقاله | کد نشریه | سال انتشار | مقاله انگلیسی | نسخه تمام متن |
---|---|---|---|---|
1721084 | 1014463 | 2011 | 18 صفحه PDF | دانلود رایگان |
عنوان انگلیسی مقاله ISI
Megacusps on rip channel bathymetry: Observations and modeling
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موضوعات مرتبط
مهندسی و علوم پایه
سایر رشته های مهندسی
مهندسی دریا (اقیانوس)
پیش نمایش صفحه اول مقاله
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چکیده انگلیسی
The formation of beach megacusps along the shoreline of southern Monterey Bay, CA, is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. Investigations focus on the hydrodynamic role played by the bay's ever-present rip channels. A review of four years of video and wave data from Sand City, CA, indicates that megacusps most often form shoreward of rip channels under larger waves (significant wave height (Hs) = 1.5-2.0 m). However, they also occasionally appear shoreward of shoals when waves are smaller (Hs ~ 1 m) and the mean water level is higher on the beach. After calibration to the Sand City site, XBeach is shown to hindcast measured shoreline change moderately well (skill = 0.41) but to overpredict the erosion of the swash region and beach face. Simulations with small to moderate waves (Hs = 0.5-1.2 m) suggest, similar to field data, that megacusps will form shoreward of either rip channels or shoals, depending on mean daily water level and pre-existing beach shape. A frequency-based analysis of sediment transport forcing is performed, decomposing transport processes to the mean, infragravity, and very-low-frequency (VLF) contributions for two highlighted cases. Results indicate that the mean flow plays the dominant role in both types of megacusp formation, but that VLF oscillations in sediment concentration and advective flow are also significant.
ناشر
Database: Elsevier - ScienceDirect (ساینس دایرکت)
Journal: Coastal Engineering - Volume 58, Issue 9, September 2011, Pages 890-907
Journal: Coastal Engineering - Volume 58, Issue 9, September 2011, Pages 890-907
نویسندگان
Mark D. Orzech, Ad J.H.M. Reniers, Edward B. Thornton, Jamie H. MacMahan,