A numerical model of nearshore waves, currents, and sediment transport

A two-dimensional numerical model of nearshore waves, currents, and sediment transport was developed. The multi-directional random wave transformation model formulated by Mase [Mase, H., 2001. Multi-directional random wave transformation model based on energy balance equation. Coastal Engineering Journal 43(4), 317-337.] based on an energy balance equation was employed with an improved description of the energy dissipation due to breaking. In order to describe surface roller effects on the momentum transport, an energy balance equation for the roller was included following Dally and Brown [Dally, W.R., Brown, C.A., 1995. A modeling investigation of the breaking wave roller with application to cross-shore currents. Journal of Geophysical Research 100(C12), 24873-24883.]. Nearshore currents and mean water elevation were modeled using the continuity equation together with the depth-averaged momentum equations. Sediment transport rates in the offshore and surf zone were computed using the sediment transport formulation proposed by Camenen and Larson [Camenen, B., Larson, M., 2005. A general formula for non-cohesive bed load sediment transport. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 63, 249-260.; Camenen, B., Larson, M., 2007. A unified sediment transport formulation for coastal inlet application. Technical report ERDC/CHL CR-07-1, US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, MS.; Camenen, B., Larson, M., 2008. A general formula for non-cohesive suspended sediment transport. Journal of Coastal Research 24(3), 615-627.] together with the advection–diffusion equation, whereas the swash zone transport rate was obtained from the formulas derived by Larson and Wamsley [Larson, M., Wamsley, T.V., 2007. A formula for longshore sediment transport in the swash. Proceedings Coastal Sediments '07, ASCE, New Orleans, pp. 1924–1937.]. Three high-quality data sets from the LSTF experimental facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, USA, were used to evaluate the predictive capability of the model. Good agreement between computations and measurements was obtained with regard to the cross-shore variation in waves, currents, mean water elevation, and sediment transport in the nearshore and swash zone. The present model will form the basis for predicting morphological evolution in the nearshore due to waves and currents with special focus on coastal structures.