Evaluation of a high-resolution wave forecasting system for the approaches to ports

The objective of the present work is to analyse the performance of a high-resolution wave forecasting system to provide accurate real time information about the sea states in the neighbourhood of the Portuguese ports. Pre-operational tests with the SWAN model, including calibrations and validations of the results in medium and high resolution areas, were carried out for an eight-month period starting with October 2010. All the three formulations, available in SWAN version 40.81 for wave generation by wind and dissipation by whitecapping, were investigated at various computational levels of the wave modelling system. The results show that the prediction accuracy in the nearshore is considerably improved by including areas with higher resolution, especially in the cases when accurate high resolution bathymetry and wind data are available. From the analysis of the wave statistics against buoy data, the most reliable model system configuration for the continental Portuguese nearshore was designed.

► The skill of a high-resolution wave forecasting system is evaluated.
► Three formulations available in SWAN for wave generation and dissipation are considered.
► The most appropriate formulation for Portuguese Coast is chosen.
► The accuracy in the nearshore is considerably improved by including areas with higher resolution.