Bicellar systems as modifiers of skin lipid structure

The characterization of different bicellar aggregates and the effects of these systems on the stratum corneum (SC) microstructure have been studied. Dynamic light scattering (DLS) and freeze fracture electron microscopy (FFEM) techniques showed that both of the systems studied, dimyristoyl-phosphatidilcholine/dihexanoyl-phosphocholine (DMPC/DHPC) and dipalmitoyl-phosphocholine (DPPC)/DHPC, were formed by small discoidal aggregates at room temperature (20 °C). Treating skin with DMPC/DHPC bicelles does not affect the SC lipid microstructure, whereas bicellar systems formed by DPPC and DHPC can promote the formation of new structures in the SC lipid domains. This indicates the passage of lipids from bicelles through the SC layers and also a possible interaction of these lipids with the SC lipids. Given the absence of surfactant in the bicellar composition and the small size of these structures, the use of these smart nano-systems offers great advantages over other lipid systems for dermatological purposes. Bicelles could be promising applications as drug carriers through the skin. This contribution, based on the new biological use of bicelles, may be useful to scientists engaged in colloid science and offers a new tool for different applications in skin and cosmetic research.

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► Bicelles emerge as a smart nano-system with the possibility to reinforce the stratum corneum lipid microstructure.
► Bicellar systems possess promising applications for skin.
► Depending on their composition, bicelles interact differently with the microstructure of the skin stratum corneum.
► Bicelles may be useful to scientists engaged in colloid science and offer a new tool for different applications in skin and cosmetic research.