From milk to cheese: Evolution of flavor fingerprint of milk, cream, curd, whey, ricotta, scotta, and ripened cheese obtained during summer Alpine pasture

The role of each step of cheese and ricotta making in development of flavor of cheese and other dairy products is not yet well known. The objectives of this study were to characterize volatile organic compounds (VOC) in cheese and ricotta making with bulk milk from cows grazing in a highland area and to evaluate their evolution in the various dairy products and by-products obtained during the production processes. A group of 148 cows was grazed day and night on pasture from June to September. A total of 7 cheese-making sessions were carried out using the bulk milk collected every 2 wk during summer pasturing according to the artisanal procedure used for Malga cheese production. All milks, products, and by-products were sampled, and the VOC content of milk, cream, whey, ricotta, scotta (residual liquid), fresh cheeses, and cheeses ripened for 6 and 12 mo was determined by solid-phase microextraction gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Forty-nine compounds were identified belonging to the following chemical families: alcohols (13), aldehydes (9), esters (8), free fatty acids (6), ketones (5), lactones (2), sulfurs (2), terpenes (2), phenol (1), and benzene (1). The results showed that the amounts of VOC in the various dairy products differed significantly. Comparisons between the VOC of 4 types of milk (whole evening, skim evening, whole morning, mixed in the vat) showed that the skimming process had the greatest effect, with about half of all the VOC analyzed affected, followed by time of milking (evening milking vs. morning milking) and mixing (skim evening milk mixed with whole morning milk). In general, among fresh products, cream had higher contents of fatty acids, sulfurs, and terpene volatile compounds than fresh cheese and ricotta, whereas ricotta showed a very high VOC amount compared with fresh cheese, probably due to its high processing temperature. The effects of the progressive nutrient depletion in milk during processing were investigated by comparing the amounts of VOC in vat milk, whey, and scotta. Although milk contained greater amounts of nutrients, whey and especially scotta had higher concentrations of VOC, with the exception of esters, sulfurs, terpenes, and phenolic compounds, as a result of physicochemical and microbial modifications during processing. Finally, the effect of ripening was tested by comparing the VOC of fresh and ripened cheeses (6 and 12 mo), revealing that VOC release increased dramatically during the first semester and further with increasing the ripening period to 1 yr. In particular, some alcohols (butan-2-ol), aldehydes (2-methylpropanal, hexanal, and heptanal), esters (ethyl butanoate and ethyl hexanoate), fatty acids (acetic, butanoic, and hexanoic acids), and ketones (butan-2-one, pentan-2-one, and heptan-2-one) showed a very large increase. In conclusion, according to the artisanal milk processing carried out for Malga cheese production, the quantity of VOC was shown to increase about 3 times during cheese making (from milk in vat to fresh cheese plus whey), almost 4 times during ricotta making (from whey to ricotta plus scotta), and about 16 times during 1 yr of ripening of cheese.