A reliable and environmentally-friendly liquid-chromatographic method for multi-class determination of fat-soluble UV filters in cosmetic products

• A reliable LC-UV method to determine fat-soluble UV filters in cosmetics is presented.
• Commercial samples are analyzed with excellent recoveries.
• Excellent accordance is also obtained in the analysis of different home-made samples.
• The environmentally-friendly characteristics make it suitable for routine analysis.
• The good analytical features make it also suitable for candidate reference method.

An environmentally-friendly analytical method for the simultaneous determination of 15 fat-soluble ultraviolet (UV) filters currently authorized by the European Union regulation on cosmetic products has been developed. The determination was performed by liquid chromatography with UV spectrophotometric detection. Different parameters, such as type of column, oven temperature, mobile phase composition and flow rate were studied. The best chromatographic separation was obtained under the following conditions: C18 column set at 60 °C and gradient ethanol:water (containing 1% formic acid and 20 mM of 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin) as mobile phase pumped at 1 mL min−1. 2-Hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin was added as mobile phase modifier to achieve the complete resolution of some of the chromatographic peaks. The 15 target compounds were separated in less than 30 min. The method was satisfactorily validated by analyzing three laboratory-made cosmetic samples besides of eleven commercially available cosmetic products containing different combination of the target UV filters. Good accordance of the found levels compared with those of the laboratory-made samples and those of the commercial samples (when available) was achieved. Moreover, excellent recoveries (97–104%) and good intra-day and inter-day precision values at different concentration levels, besides limits of detection values below the μg mL−1 level, were obtained. These good analytical features, as well as their environmentally-friendly characteristics, make the presented method suitable not only for routine analysis in cosmetics industries, but also as candidate reference method for sunscreen analysis.

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