Study of water vapor and surfactant absorption by lipid model systems using the quartz crystal microbalance

Skin is constantly exposed to surfactants which compromise the essential barrier function of normal healthy skin. To model the interactions of surfactants with the barrier lipids of the stratum corneum (SC), it is essential to develop in vitro and in vivo quantitative measurement methods to predict, evaluate, and demonstrate the effect of the different surfactant chemistries and technologies on skin. In the current work, in vitro water vapor uptake and surfactant absorption onto skin lipid model films were quantitatively studied using a technique based on the piezoelectric effect, the quartz crystal microbalance (QCM). This approach is straightforward and reliable in providing subtle surface/interface related mass change information with high resolution and sensitivity. The results show that barrier properties of the lipid model system may be damaged by surfactant absorption, as well as by long-term water exposure due to alterations to the lipid film structure. Surfactant absorption is found to be concentration dependent even beyond its critical micelle concentration (CMC). QCM results for different surfactant systems are consistent with reported clinical data in showing that clinically milder surfactants (SLES) do not perturb the film as much as clinically harsh surfactants (SDS).

► The quartz crystal microbalance (QCM) method is convenient and reliable in providing subtle insights into the surface/interface related mass changes with high resolution and sensitivity.
► The QCM results show that barrier properties of the lipid systems may be damaged by surfactant absorption, as well as by long-term water exposure due to alterations to the lipid film structure.
► Surfactant absorption is found to be concentration dependent even beyond its critical micelle concentration (CMC).
► QCM results for different surfactant systems are consistent with reported clinical data in showing that clinically milder surfactants (SLES) do not perturb the film as much as clinically harsh surfactants (SDS).