A real-time nearshore wave and current prediction system

A nearshore wave, tide and current prediction system was demonstrated during the MREA04 Trial in the Portuguese coastal waters near Pinheiro da Cruz during the early spring of 2004. Daily forecasts of regional scale wave and tidal information and nearshore waves and currents were generated in DIOPS utilizing a suite of regional and nearshore models forced with data from meteorological and oceanographic production centers. A limited beach experiment was conducted with three Nortek current meters deployed in the surf zone and a video imagery system to generate 10-min time exposures used to identify the locations of wave breaking. In this study, Delft3D, a coastal hydrodynamic modeling system, capable of simulating hydrodynamic processes due to waves, tides, rivers, winds and coastal currents, is used to predict the nearshore wave and longshore currents near Pinheiro da Cruz. The nearshore bathymetry used in this study was based on LIDAR data collected in February 2000. Delft3D shows mixed results when compared with the measured wave height and nearshore currents. Improved Delft3D results can be achieved in the future if migrating sand bars can be measured and included in the modeling.