Simulation of nearshore wave processes by a depth-integrated non-hydrostatic finite element model

This paper presents CCHE2D-NHWAVE, a depth-integrated non-hydrostatic finite element model for simulating nearshore wave processes. The governing equations are a depth-integrated vertical momentum equation and the shallow water equations including extra non-hydrostatic pressure terms, which enable the model to simulate relatively short wave motions, where both frequency dispersion and nonlinear effects play important roles. A special type of finite element method, which was previously developed for a well-validated depth-integrated free surface flow model CCHE2D, is used to solve the governing equations on a partially staggered grid using a pressure projection method. To resolve discontinuous flows, involving breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, a momentum conservation advection scheme is developed based on the partially staggered grid. In addition, a simple and efficient wetting and drying algorithm is implemented to deal with the moving shoreline. The model is first verified by analytical solutions, and then validated by a series of laboratory experiments. The comparison shows that the developed wave model without the use of any empirical parameters is capable of accurately simulating a wide range of nearshore wave processes, including propagation, breaking, and run-up of nonlinear dispersive waves and transformation and inundation of tsunami waves.