Topical vehicles based on natural surfactant/fatty alcohols mixed emulsifier: The influence of two polyols on the colloidal structure and in vitro/in vivo skin performance

There is a growing need for in-depth research into new skin- and environment-friendly surfactants, such as alkylpolyglucosides. The aim of this study was to assess whether, to which extent and by what mechanism the two commonly used hydrophilic excipients, propylene glycol (PG) and glycerol (GL), affect the colloidal structure of emulsions formed by a natural mixed emulsifier, cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol. Furthermore, the study was concerned with the effect of these changes on in vitro permeation profiles of two model drugs (diclofenac sodium and caffeine) and in vivo skin performance of the test samples. The results have shown that the emulsion vehicles consisted of a complex colloidal structure of lamellar liquid crystalline and lamellar gel crystalline type. PG addition produced a stronger hydrophilic lamellar gel phase than GL, which was independent on the model drug used. PG-containing vehicles have revealed a considerable amount of interlamellar PG/water mixture, with incorporated drug. In vitro permeation data obtained using artificial skin constructs (ASC) confirmed the relationship between rheological profiles of vehicles and the extent of skin delivery. Higher permeation profiles of both drugs from PG-containing formulations coincided with a higher increase in transepidermal water loss observed in in vivo study on human volunteers, which confirms the penetration/permeation enhancer effect of PG. It also indicates the existence of the vehicle/ASC interactions analogous to those between the vehicle and the skin, thus affirming the use of ASC as a reliable tool for permeation studies. Contrary to the effect of PG, the results obtained with GL suggest that it may have a permeation-retarding rather than a permeation-enhancing effect in topical vehicles of this type. © 2008 Wiley-Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 98:2073-2090, 2009