کد مقاله کد نشریه سال انتشار مقاله انگلیسی نسخه تمام متن
4719254 1639171 2008 9 صفحه PDF دانلود رایگان
عنوان انگلیسی مقاله ISI
Low-Energy Rip Currents Associated With Small Bathymetric Variations
موضوعات مرتبط
مهندسی و علوم پایه علوم زمین و سیارات ژئوشیمی و پترولوژی
پیش نمایش صفحه اول مقاله
Low-Energy Rip Currents Associated With Small Bathymetric Variations
چکیده انگلیسی

We show for the first time that low-energy waves can induce a rip current system over subtle alongshore bathymetric variations. Comprehensive field measurements across a rip current that morphologically migrated (∼ 12 m/day) through a coherent cross- and alongshore array of co-located pressure and velocity sensors were obtained. The rip current is associated with a small bathymetric surfzone non-uniformity (1 in 300 alongshore variation). The circulation was kinematically non-uniform for ∼ 5% of the time over the course of the 20 day experiment and was present at low tides associated with increases in rip current activity. The presence of the rip current and mild-sloped rip channel induce statistically significant alongshore variations in Hrms, wave direction, directional spreading, infragravity waves, and very low frequency motions. Changes in the directional spreading are correlated with the presence of very low frequency motions influenced by the presence of the rip current.

ناشر
Database: Elsevier - ScienceDirect (ساینس دایرکت)
Journal: Marine Geology - Volume 255, Issues 3–4, 5 December 2008, Pages 156–164
نویسندگان
, , , , ,